How to Modify the Atomic Backland Pro

Are you ready to dive into hardboot splitboarding? The Atomic Backland Pro is the best starting point to create a hardboot that rides fantastic, climbs with confidence, and is durable enough to last for hundreds of days. Alpenglow Sports sells the Atomic Backland Pro as a boot-only for $749.95. This guide details the modifications you can purchase to improve the ride feel and tailor the boot to your specific needs. Alpenglow Sports is thrilled to have the support of Atomic and Phantom Snow Industries to offer a complete splitboard hardboot.

The Atomic Backland Pro was chosen because it requires no modification to the boot to accept the Phantom Link Lever. The Link Lever is a bolt on replacement for the Hike Mode lever included with the Backland Pro. The first step is to remove the walk mode lever by unscrewing the two hex or allen key bolts on the back of the upper cuff. This will expose two female T nuts that should remain in place in the upper cuff of the boot. You will not need the factory hike mode lever. You can discard it.

The first mistake you could make here would be to re-use the backlands’ hex bolts. You’ll want to favor the included Phantom hardware, two silver Torx screws that will come with blue locktite installed. Use these screws to fasten the Link Lever in place. Orient the link lever with the short-side of the mounting plate pointing upwards. The longer side of the mounting plate needs to point downwards for you to get the appropriate forward lean options. Tighten these screws hand tight and check them after your first few rides.

We did not mispeak. No steps have been missed. The addition of the Link Lever is the ONLY step to get your new boots ready to ride. Of course you’ll need hardboot splitboard bindings and a board, but your boots are 100% ready to ride. I’d encourage you to think about two distinct feelings as you ride. First assess your heel hold. Heel hold is your heel’s ability to stay planted in the back of the boot under normal riding and skinning conditions. Anyone can forcibly lift their heels out of a boot, so try to focus on the riding and walking experience. Use the red forefoot strap to adjust tension and improve your heel hold.

Feel also for lateral stiffness in the upper cuff of the boot. Lateral, or side to side, movement will be easy to asses while you are strapped into the board and ready to ride downhill. Move your hips side to side and see how the boots flex inwards and outwards towards the front and back of the board. Some riders want more lateral flex and others want less. You can adjust the lateral flex of the boot by loosening or tightening the booster strap at the top of the boot. I’m going to make a prediction: You’re likely to want more lateral flex in the upper cuff and you can use our next mod to achieve that.

The booster strap is the ratcheting strap that encircles the top of the boot. It is attached to the boot with one single hex screw and T nut. Remove the screw and the booster strap will come free. The T nut may stay held in place by the liner, but you can easily remove it. This modification significantly opens the top of the boot and unlocks additional lateral flex. Consider retaining the booster strap and hardware. You might add them back one day! The photos below are before (Left) and after (Right).

If you are struggling with heel hold you can add the Phantom Pivot Buckle Mod Kit. The pivot buckle applies downward pressure at the ankle by spanning the space between the two pivot points on either side of your ankle. This is a modification I’ve done to multiple boots to deliver a more traditional snowboard boot feel. The Pivot Buckle gives the same feeling as the ankle strap of a softboot snowboard binding. It’s a good feeling!

You’ll start by removing the forefoot strap and cable from the lower shell of the boot. Remove the liner and use an allen key to loosen the five screws that secure the forefoot strap. Be mindful of the T nuts on the backside! They will try to spin on you and can be a little tricky. I usually just apply upward pressure with my free hand while I start to loosen the screw from the top. If the T nut is spinning free, I try to clamp it in place with a pair of pliers. This can be a black belt move!

With the forefoot strap removed, you are ready to add the Pivot Buckle. You’ll use an allen key to remove the screw at each pivot point. This is another challenging move where you’ll need to secure the T nut from the inside. Fortunately, the Pivot Buckle Mod Kit comes with a 15mm socket that is the perfect fit for the inside T nut. You’ll need a 3/8th in drive ratchet and be mindful of which direction the ratcheting head is spinning. Remove the factory hardware one a time.

You’ll replace the factory screws with Phantoms included hardware and blue locktite. Apply locktite to the screw and prepare a torx bit, the ankle strap, and the washers for installation. The strap side of the Pivot Buckle should be the inside of your boot with the buckle side on the outside. You’ll place a washer in between the buckle and the pivot point on the boot and another in between the strap and the screw head. To clarify, there are two washers used on each side, one on either side of the Pivot buckle, requiring a total of four washers for installation. You likely have extra washers in your kit. Don’t mind them. They won’t hurt you.

Tighten the torx head screw by orienting your ratchet vertically inside of the boot to get purchase on the T nut. I go quite tight on this screw and check it after my first few laps. Losing this screw would be a problem in the field. Fortunately, your Pivot buckle will make it obvious that the screw is loosening. If your pivot buckle or pivot strap can easily rotate 360 degrees at the pivot point, your screws are too loose. Aim for a tightness that allows for small modifications to the strap without it falling out of place under its own weight.

If you have made the above modifications you have just unlocked what we consider to be the best hardboot splitboard boot on the market. If you’re happy with your boot without making mods 3 and 4, you also have the best hardboot! Get stoked! The best way to enjoy your new boot is to go ride it! You’ll enjoy easier climbing with fantastic traction in the skintrack. Gone are the days when skiers are pulling ahead of you on the uphill. You’ll be right with them! You’ll enjoy efficient transitions with fewer steps that are more reliable. Opt for a Phantom M6 binding for the best ride experience and the confidence of all-metal construction. Spark Dyno DH bindings would be your best option to save some money while getting into the sport. Make sure to get canted pucks.

Once you click into those bindings, you will surprise yourself. You already know how to ride in hardboots! That’s because this boot delivers a playful, soft riding experience at low speeds with incredible drive of the board when you need it. Congratulations! You just made the best investment to stay stoked on riding. Hardboots will help you get out there twice as much with half the fatigue. Go have fun!

Your purchase unlocks free bootfitting for life. If you’ve done step 5 and are not satisfied with your boot, we are here to help. The Atomic Backland is one the easiest boots to modify. 100% of the staff at Alpenglow Sports are certified boot fitters and we can modify your shell and/or liner for more comfort or better performance. We require appointments for boot fitting so please give us a call so that we can schedule an appointment. Most are available same day.